Side Snap Trainer Tutorial

Making a Side Snapping Trainer, yourself!

Side snapping trainers can be rather quick to make in either PUL for waterproofing or without. Both will help your little one get on their way to learning the potty! These can be made with recycled materials for the absorbent pieces, like old T-shirts, towels/wash cloths or flannel for the core or really any cotton material. The PUL would need to be purchased if you do not have any on hand, an 18” X 18” diaper cut would work for most sizes as well.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Pair of sharp scissors
• Fold over elastic (FOE)
• Outer Layer: PUL if you want a water proof outer (at least 18” X 18” cut), if not, then another outer of your choice (a knit print, same as inner material, minky, etc)
• Inner Layer: 20” X 18” absorbent material cut. You just need at least a cut of the trainer shape, the soaker can be made with what scraps you have on hand. The soaker goal is to catch the accident, so shape is not that critical.
• Snaps or strong Velcro. For home use, metal snaps are an alternative that is fairly inexpensive.
• Sewing machine and thread, a ballpoint needle is best.

Now for the action!

1. Fold your PUL or outer layer in half and place your pattern piece on top. I use weights to hold down the pattern so I don’t use pins to puncture the PUL, plus it’s quicker. If you sew, it’s the best 6ish dollars I have spent…well, next to my bobbin winder ***heart***. Cut the pattern out.            
2.  Take the cut outer layer and place it on the inner layer material and use that as the pattern. Cut that out. 
3. Use the scraps to cut 2 soaker layers. You can use another layer or two for over nights, but be careful, it could have an opposite affect by having too much fabric in a narrower crotch area.   You can try using tiered soakers, so there is less bulk on the sides.                
4. Take the soaker layers and place them on the “wrong” side along the middle of the “inner layer” and pin to hold in place. Use a 3 step zig zag to tack it down around the edges.              
5. Now place the inner and outer layer pieces, right sides together. Stitch along the 4 short edges that would be the sides of the trainer.Here, I have a teflon foot I use for PUL sewing.   It works great most of the time, but some PUL has more drag than others.   Others use a walking foot with much success.  If you have neither, you can use any thin easily rippable paper and cut into strips and use that between the foot and the PUL. Once stitched, rip off the paper. ***old receipts work great and usually the right size!
6. After all four sides are sewn along the edge, turn the trainer right side out. Line up all unsewn edges (PUL to Liner) and pin just a few spaces within 1/4 inch from the edge to hold together.  
7. Take the FOE and fold in 1/2 inch width wise on the end before folding over on the edge.  This keeps the cut end inside and prevents unraveling.   Now fold along the edge of the trainer, lining up the side where you sewed the seam and the FOE.   Using a zig zag or 3 step zig zag stitch, stitch the FOE down.   I generally use a 3 length and 6.5 width.  You'll end the same way you started with the end folded in.  I usually stop about 1.5 inches before the edge to set it up.  When sewing the elastic, keep a gentle stretch on it, but not too tight.   It will shrink up a bit in the wash and it should only have a slight gather.
8. Once all your elastic is done, you're ready for snaps.   You can also use metal snaps for home use or velcro.   Just remember to "pretend to close" so you put the pieces where they need to go!
9. Finished!